Stripping a Blazer

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Author Message Jjay Username: Jjay Registered: 03-2005 Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 1:47 pm:    My 1982 Strat-like Blazer is bright "80s" red. I love it, but the colour wears on me. I won't ever sell it, so I'm not worried about resale. Should I sand it down to the natural wood, or is that too big a task? Any tips on how to do it if I dare? Funkle Username: Funkle Registered: 12-2001 Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 - 2:16 pm:    You can try a chemical stripper. If that doesn't work, try a heat gut (looks like a hair dryer, but MUCH hotter). If neither of the above methods work, then you can resort to sanding - a lot more work and potentially damaging to the guitar if you're not careful. Are you planning on refinishing it yourself? I ask because this can yield poor results unless you have the right equipment and experience. They are often not as durable as a stock poly finish. -Sven Jjay Username: Jjay Registered: 03-2005 Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 7:49 am:    I have no experience at all doing this. What type of chemical stripper do you recommend? As for finishing, I didn't even think that far ahead (just wanted to get rid of the red). Any more suggestions would be welcome. Thanks. Funkle Username: Funkle Registered: 12-2001 Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 10:59 am:    Your local hardware store should have a good selection of dangerous volitile chemicals used for stripping paint. But it has been my experience that the chemical strippers do not work on most Ibanez finishes, which are polyester, or some kind of catalyzed finish. I've stripped one with a heat gun - this worked beautifully, but the wood grain may get darkened by the heat in places. Another one had paint that was impervious to the 1000 degrees generated by the gun. So I had to sand it using a palm sander and drum attachments for a drill. Start with course grit and move to finer grits as you start to get close to the wood. The object is to remove paint, not wood. As far as the finish goes, I have seen many well conceived refins fall apart here. There are various simple rub on solutions and penetrating oils that you can use, but I've never really cared for these. A guitar comes to life with a nice deep glass smooth finish. The type of finish you choose will depend on what you find when you get down to the wood - Ibanez often shot solid finishes on visually blemished wood. If you do it yourself, plan on an initial equipment investment, and a learning curve (be willing to blotch your first couple jobs - maybe better to practice on a disposable guitar. I think my point is that (unless you REALLY want to learn to finish guitars) for what you will spend in time, frustration and money, you'll get a better deal hiring a pro. Find a local guitar repairman, or online outfit that will shoot the finish for you, spend the $300-500 to get a guitar you will be proud of. There's a lot of info, and some skilled individuals who could do a your refin at http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/ -Sven Billy_porter Username: Billy_porter Registered: 03-2005 Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 3:04 pm:    Hi It all depends on whether its your pride and joy that you treat it as a piece of Ibanez history or a tool that you ‘re not bothered if it isn’t a 100% showpiece My blazer was originally natural which I contoured the body and painted it red. Didn’t like it red so went back to natural. Technique – no chemicals or heat guns just lots of sanding. I finished it with ordinary wood varnish – a few thin coats at first (varnish + white spirits) then about 5 thick coats. Finished off with lots of T-cut, elbow grease and wax. Its not perfect but it does me - see pics However – you may find that the wood on a painted one is not as good as a natural Funkle Username: Funkle Registered: 12-2001 Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 8:31 pm:    Looks good in the photos Billy. Just an idea: I know a furniture builder, and they shoot a lot of their stuff with satin finish conversion varnish. It looks a lot like the finish on some of the newer guitars and bases with the natural finish - The contour of the grain shows through, and it's tough as nails - dries fast and almost impossible to scratch. I bet you could get a local shop to do it for beer money. Another approach is toung oil. You rub in on, and rub out with steel wool between coats, then wax. With enough coats you can build up a very nice satin finish. Time consuming but cheap and easy. -Sven Jerryneves Username: Jerryneves Registered: 03-2001 Posted on Friday, April 15, 2005 - 3:17 pm:    Jjay, Where are you located. I do a lot of refinnish work and live in the SF Bay Area. I have a guy that strips the bodies (I send him solid bodies only, no laminants) for me for about $40. He dips them and is very careful (He has done probably 50 strats for my customers in the past 5 years). He can save stampings, etc if needed. He can suspend set-neck guitars to strip the body only. For laminated tops there is usually no way around sanding by hand. But be careful!!! You should use only fine grade sand paper to break thru to the wood, and even with light grade paper it is still VERY easy to go thru the laminated top layer. I would NEVER use strippers because they often permanently stain the wood! Plus they can de-laminate glued joints or tops. I prefer mirror like finnishes, rather than satin finishes or rubbed poil finishes. Why remove clean glossy paint if you are going to replace it with a rough looking clear coat. Most that do this end up unhappy with the results. I have tried to walk many through doing the refin themselves, and most are unsuccessful (IMHO) but some are happy with the results that they achieve, I just wouldnt be. Plus, realisticly, its tough to do refinnish work with cheap equipment. I have spray guns that range from $350-$500, and I could still use more equipment. Search this website using my user name for some step by step how to's on refinnishing. Funkle Username: Funkle Registered: 12-2001 Posted on Friday, April 15, 2005 - 4:05 pm:    I was thinking about the whole finish quality thing, and I think that the type, and quality of a finish plays a huge role in the personality of the guitar (for me). Just like Jjays '80s red paint job changes the personality of his guitar, so will a rushed paint job - your guitar will still be a beater. Your guitar is a top notch player, why not give it top notch duds and make it into something you can be really proud of. -Sven Jjay Username: Jjay Registered: 03-2005 Posted on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 - 8:16 am:    I'm in NOva Scotia. The more I read what you guys have said, I think I'm more likely to shell out a few dollars and get it done professionally. At leats I wouldn't second guess myself. Thanks.

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