The JS 1000 with a few things that ne...

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Author Message   Bobby E Day Jr. Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    I recently bought a JS 1000 from a bass player and I still cannot believe how the small things can make all the difference in the world! It seems this 1000 had been modified to hold some type of synth pickup that was used in a studio for about 3 days. After that, it was sold, minus the synth pickup to who I bought it from. (He had it about 2 years) What is the amazing part of the whole thing is that during the 2 years he had it, he only played it about another 20 hours, so the fret ware is still non-existant. After bringing the axe home, I could not believe the way it had been being played. "Satch" would have not been pleased with the set-up on his signature model! The trem didn't stay in tune, the strings felt like they where a mile away from the fretboard, and the face of the guitar has several "abuses". All I can tell everyone is to know what your getting and also what to do with it! I have been doing set-up's for several years, and man that's what it all came down to. I recently have the axe playing through my JCM 900 SLX, and I'm sure that Joe himself would be pleased with the TONE. Has there been anyone in my shoes? Or do you all just play a guitar and say "I don't really like the way it plays or feels." OH BROTHER, you got to remember, your only as smart as the equiptment you use!   spiro Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Bobby I have been in your shoes for the past 9 years I worked in a music shop for 7 years and I got at least 5 or 6 guitars set up in the day. I must admit that on a new guitar that has been "factory set up " I had to spend at least 2 hours getting everything right but on a guitar that has been unplayed and the floyd is sitting up like a bookshelf I have found it easier to work with even if I have to pull the guitar to bits and start all over. In my years as a "salesman" at a music shop I have never sold a guitar that has not had its nut filed or the truss adjusted, even beginners guitars I will spend an hour or so fixing them up. I think that is why I have a good rep for repairs on guitars. When I do get the better 2nd hand guitars they are completely stripped of all parts, pickups are potted and polished. All screws are soaked in Hospital strength cleaner and boiling water (you wouldnt believe how this brings up the most cruddiest of screws) All tuners are degreased and graphite is used in the gears. the paint job depending on its condition is buffed with a light cutting compound and foam (again depending on the guitar and its finish)Fret board is cleaned with an old toothbrush and pure soap then i buff each fret by hand, oil the fret board string it up let it sit out the back for at least a month. I then bring it out and make some minor adjustments and then put it on display. Would you like to know how many guitars I have had returned because they did'nt like the feel ? About 50 because it didnt feel like their other guitars so instead of re setting the one they bought from me I told them to bring in their other guitars and see how they were set up followed that guitar or set up their other guitar the way I set the guitar they bought off me.. I think that set up of a guitar is very important and spend a great deal of time on a guitar. Even the slightest truss adjustment can make a huge difference in the playability and feel of the guitar.. I am in the middle of restoring 3 Ibanez guitars 1 is a 2354 SG copy which was ready to be thrown out as the fret board was ruined and there were holes drilled in the body I have nearly finished this one (I have sprayed with a blue sparkle finish a made a MOP scratch plate and re inlayed the fret board with real MOP) 2 is a 2393 les paul copy which again was ready to be thrown out and this has been done in a wine red stain 3 a strange hollow body electric in a strat shape with one F hole which I have done in a green sparkle with a MOP scratch plate As soon as I learn how to post pics on this forum I will show you my progress   Bobby E. Day Jr. Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Hey Spiro, it's nice to hear from another Ibanez rebuilder such as yourself. Not only did I get the set-up on my JS1000 to about 95%, I am in the middle of restoring around a '87 or so S540 that I found in a pawnshop about 6 months ago for $75! It was a basketcase, with the body having several deep intentions on the face and missing the lockdowns and a trem bar.(the neck is a wizard 22 fret!) I have got the guitar body sanded down to 220 and after a few more sandings with a more fine grit, it should be ready for paint. I do have a question that you might be able to help me with. When I stripped down the finish,(which wasn't original) I noticed that someone had primered the body before they shot it.(I also noticed some dings that had been filled with bondo!) Is this a the way body's are painted(I don't know because this is my first complete rebuild) or was someone completely insane? I have had several people telling me the best way to paint this semi-radius body, but I've kinda thought they all sounded goofy! When you can, please put up another message and let me in on some "good" advice! Or if you want, you can reach me at Ionianuser@hotmail.com. Because of your background, I would like to know what's the real way to proceed!   spiro Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:04 am:    Bobby, Yes most guitars have filler but I have noticed it more in recent years on Ibanez than ever before that is why I suggest buying clear coloured guitars as you can't hide the filler then. There are several ways to paint a guitar: 1 Nitrocellulose lacquer (fender and early gibsons) 2 Automotive acrylic lacquer also known as a type of polyurethane (not sure?) 3 2 pack automotive lacquer 4 rtl 2500 resin lacquer (very hard to use) My favourite and easiest way to respray a body is in automotive acrylic lacquer. The reason for this being is that all products are available in acrylic so you wo'nt have any problem when primering or filling.. Ok here we go. (in acrylic because I gather you want to do a solid colour right?) paints needed. 1 litre Primer surfacer (dont know what brands you have but I use Spartan or Dulux 1 litre High build spray putty (you require a different gun for this so probably use the spray can variety (2 cans is heaps) 1 litre colour (you will have heaps left over for touch ups). 2 litres of acrylic clear And I buy about 20 litres of acrylic thinner at the time cause it is cheap and it comes in handy everywhere. You need to use a base coat or primer to seal the wood. Use only about two coats of this (you will see the grain lift slightly but dont worry) Next sand with a 600 grade paper just enough to scratch the surface. Then hit it with spray putty, at this stage dont worry about runs as you will be sanding quite a lot. Hit the body about 3 coats (this builds pretty heavily) then leave it to dry for 3 days in a warm room. During this time grab yourself about 6 sheets of 600 grade wet or dry and a wood block and soak them in water and a bit of soap overnight. Okay now hear comes the crucial part, the prep work for colour.. Grab your wet an dry paper and sand all flat surfaces first making sure it always wet and be sure not to go throught the putty. Then sand all the curves. If the sand paper hasnt hit any places on the flat you will need to build these up with some more spray putty, but not to much.When the body is all flat You will have to let it hang up for about a week. After the week is over if youve done everything right you will not see any grain showing through the paint (indent on the surface that is no the wood itself.) Okay if everything looks nice an flat and smooth no dimples showing you can proceed with the colour Be very careful with this as if you stuff this up you will have to start all over again. The colour should be thinned down to 50-50 thinners and colour. Give the guitar a few light coats at first and then a couple of heavier coats to fill the colour. About four or 5 coats of colour will be enough. Now leave for about two days to dry well. again with your trusty 600 grade paper and bucket of water sand the body just enough to get the shine of the paint. leave again for about two days to settle. Now hit the body with the clear 50 - 50 mix again(you have to make sure the room is very dry and warm when you do this.)doing about three coats with 15 minute gaps in between. Now let the body dry overnight Sand the clear with 600 grade and water to get it smooth again make sure you dont go through the clear. Now give it more coats again. repeat this until you have about 15-20 coats sitting on the body (dont worry this sound like a lot but they are very light coats) Now leave to dry for about 2 weeks. You can tell whenit is dry enough to buff. You will not be able to smell yhe lacquer in the room any more. (probably about a week) Now here comes the fun part wet sand the body with 1000 grade sand paper until there is no shine left. Using a foam pad buffer or a linen buffer and cut compound buf the whole guitar making sure not to burn through the paint and not to heat the paint up. Then with swirl remover and finally with a wax. If you have done everything properly you will have a very shiny and wet looking guitar. Okay the reason I leave so much time between coats and so on (people will tell you that you can do the whole job in about 4-5days) is have you ever noticed when you buy a new guitar and the paint looks great? Then a couple of years down the track you can see the grain showng through as indents up and down the body? Well if you wait betwen coats the paint hardens enough to prevent this to a certain extent.. Good luck. if you need anything else just post another message.

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